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New member

Joined: Apr 15, 2010
Posts: 8
Location: Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:17 am Reply with quote Back to top

Their is something every one mis in their learning process is emergency handling like if your car breaks failure?
Almost every one may know about it but i would like to share some tips to handling those situations


Step 1

Size up the traffic situation and base your decisions on the whereabouts of other vehicles, intersections or steep hills.

Step 2

Look for a safe place to steer your car and quickly down shift to low gear (this applies to both manual and automatic transmissions).

Step 3

Build up your brake pressure by pumping the brake pedal fast and firmly. It should take three or four pumps to get the brakes to work. Don't pump anti-lock brakes -- press down hard on them instead and plan on taking longer to stop. It is normal to feel pulsation at the brake pedal if you have anti-lock brakes.

Step 4

Use your parking brake if the pumping solution is ineffective or not recommended. Release it quickly if the car starts to skid.

Step 5

Don't forget to steer. Swerve only if it's absolutely necessary -- doing so can cause you to lose control of the car.

Step 6

Throw your car into reverse if all else fails. Note that this can cause serious damage to your transmission.

Tips & Warnings

Sounding your horn and flashing your headlights will warn other motorists.
Turn on your emergency flashers once you've come to a complete stop.
Try to remain calm - panicking can cause you to make mistakes.
Use a cell phone to call for roadside assistance if your brakes continue to fail. Wait in your car or another safe place until help arrives.
Get your brakes and brake hoses checked every 6 months.
A not uncommon cause of inability to brake is a soda bottle or ball rolling under the pedal: clean out under your seat!
If you have anti-lock brakes, do not pump them. Autos sold in the United States must contain fail-safe brake systems. If you have problems with your anti-lock brakes, simply press down hard and plan on waiting longer to stop.
Do not drive for any long period of time with the brake light on. Add brake fluid and go see your mechanic.

Hey i was some what lazy guy thats why information taken from below resource Laughing
i hope it would be helpful to some of us.
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Site Admin
Site Admin

Joined: Jan 06, 2010
Posts: 485

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:58 am Reply with quote Back to top

Thank you Andrew for the information and for being honest enough to post the link with it. I found the 'tips and warnings' section quite helpful... Smile
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New member

Joined: May 04, 2010
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 1:10 am Reply with quote Back to top

Very informative tips for me. Thanks for sharing such precious tips.
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Site Admin
Site Admin

Joined: Jan 06, 2010
Posts: 485

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 2:11 am Reply with quote Back to top

Welcome here cbanuva! Hope you'll find lots of great and helpful information here. And some fun threads too...! Smile
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Joined: Sep 15, 2010
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 1:06 am Reply with quote Back to top

Very nice tips. My brakes failed as I was getting off the interstate due to overheated fluid. I panicked and pulled the emergency brake up. It did not slow my car, however, it did melt the rear brakes and caused extensive damage. Brake fluid should be changed once a year as old fluid contains more water and overheats easily.
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Joined: May 31, 2011
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:07 am Reply with quote Back to top

I read all tips. These definitely help out people looking such information . Its never simple to get such tips so i am very appreciative to you guys to provide very essential information to us . Thanks.
*link snipped*
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Master Driver

Joined: Mar 27, 2010
Posts: 209

PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 4:05 am Reply with quote Back to top

A few notes, if you may. First, the chances of brake failure with modern brakes is near zero. It's more of a hollywood-induced fear than an actual one, given that modern are really so durable. About brake upgrades: Don't. Any attempt to upgrade the stock brakes is most likely to increase the rolling and unsprung mass, change the brake bias and create tire wear, premature pad and/or disc wear and a potential for sliding. In an emergency stop, bigger brakes will stop the car zero inches earlier than normal brakes.

The reason is the actual stopping is done at the tire, which is why good and carefully inflated tires can make stopping distances much shorter and also make the brakes' job much easier. Of course one should follow the recommended periodic maintainence of the brake system and renew the pads, fluid and discs.

Brake "failure" will be a result of one of several reasons, the most common of which is heat. When the brakes remain clamped for a long duration of time, even without being pressed too hard, they will generate heat which will move into the brakes lines and boil the brake fluid, creating so-called "brake fade" and a certain lost of braking force. This kind of fade would normally occur when a driver insists to "ride the brakes" all the way through a very long, continuous downhill road.

The solution is simple: In long downhill slopes (not in normal braking), use the brakes to bring the car to the desired speed, and set it in gear to keep it in that speed. This is especially true for heavy rigs, where additional means like a retarder or exhaust brake for achieving a more efficient engine braking.

Another situation where brake fade might be anticipated is when the brakes are soaked in water by going through a puddle. The water is absorbed into the brake fluid and reduce braking efficiency, but will dry out after a few times of applying the pedal. So, after every puddle, press the brakes two to three times (nothing too hard, normal brake pressure) to ensure they work and to dry them out if they don't.

Other than those two situations, the last two possible situations are a sudden drop in the hydraulic pressure (unlikely with modern brakes) and a situation of "pad knockback" (unlike when not driving at a racing pace). The latter situation can be resolved when the brake pad, which is tilted by the cornering forces, is realigned by briefly tapping the brakes once of twice. The latter situation is where the instructions posted above (relative to brake failure) are relevant.

If brake failure occurs due to a heat build up, one should use engine braking and short applications of braking force to slow down the car to nearly a crawling pace. The brakes will never fail alltoghether, but rather begin to lose some efficiency, which can often be nearly fully restored once the brakes are allowed to cool down. Simply set the car to first gear and use the brakes lightly and in short applications, so you can have the car crawl along without stopping. By maintaining motion you avoid stopping in potentially dangerous places and you allow the brakes to cool down much more effectivelly.

It is essentially the same situation as a cool down lap on a race track. The motion of the car (even at a slow speed) provides ventilation that is greatly reduced when stopped. In fact, many drivers make the mistake of not only stopping, but applying the handbrake. This clamps the rear brakes and, when the car is standing still, is likely to deform them permenantly.

In the event of a sudden drop in the hydraulic pressure the instructions in the first post are the proper ones. The principle is simple:
- Use whatever stopping force which the hydraulic brake system can still give you
- Use all other "brakes" available.

The first goal is achieved by pressing and releasing the brakes in a motion that resembles pumping. This helps to build up some pressure in the master cylinder (and this is true regardless of whether the car has ABS or not). The other "brakes" we have other than the hydraulic ones are:

- The engine braking: Achieved by shifting the gears
- The mechanical brakes: The handbrake, which connects to the rear wheels directly by wire.
- The steering drag of the front wheels: turning the front wheels makes them slow down the car
- Air drag: opening all windows helps to create aerodynamic drag.
- Surface rolling ressistance: Gravel can help slow down the car, and if an open area of sand or gravel is available, drive into it.

Notice that nearly all of these solutions, mainly using the gears, handbrake or steering, can threaten the stability of the car and they should be applied gently and carefully. In severe cases, one might have to put the car gently against the guardrail to bring it to a final halt.

In most cases there should be enough braking force left for you to keep on driving slowly towards a safe stopping place, which is fully partitioned from the road. If you must stop on the shoulder of the open highway, stop as far as possible from the road itself, apply the handbrake and place rocks before the front wheels and get out of the car and away from the road to safety, either over the guard rail or any kind of rigid cover, or simply into the terrain far from the road, and call emergency services.
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