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        <title>Encyclopedia - Fun and Safe Driving</title>
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        <link>http://www.funandsafedriving.com/</link>
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            <title>Emergency Braking</title>
            <link>http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-1.html</link>
            <description><![CDATA[<b>Emergency Braking</b> happens when you are not ready for how the road situation is unfolding and have no other choice as to apply your brakes as efficient as you can, HOPING you are able to stop your car fast enough. The key word here is HOPING, means you are not sure if you can, so you are just hoping and praying, you are not in charge any more.]]></description>
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            <title>Reckless driving</title>
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            <description><![CDATA[<b>Reckless driving</b>, how it is used now, is a legal term tailored specifically for municipalities and insurance companies in order to make enormous amounts of money on drivers.<br><br>

It used to make a lot of sense in the old times, when governments did not touch it yet, and one could rightly call reckless a person reading a book while driving, or a person driving a car with damaged brakes. Not any more. The mere fact, that in most states one gets charged with reckless driving automatically, if one exceeds any speed limit by more than 20 mph, devalues this term dramatically. We need to invent another term for the former behavior.<br><br>

When I was charged with reckless driving the first time, just a few months after moving into US, I was insulted badly. By that time I was already a pretty safe and experienced driver, and there was nothing reckless in my driving at the moment. My car was designed for this speed, and it was in a good shape, I was fresh and focused, road was a good divided interstate highway, there was very light traffic, weather was perfect ? everything lined up to ensure it was really safe to cruise at a pretty high speed. I did have some illusions about US court system at that time, and I was going to go to court (more then a couple of hundred miles) to defend my reputation ? it was not about speed, reckless driving charge did hurt my self- esteem. <br><br>

When I cooled down a bit, I hired a lawyer. The lawyer was able to negotiate the charge from ?40+ above speed limit plus reckless driving? to ?driving on the wrong side of the road?, and I paid him flat fee, fine and court fees included. This effectively killed all illusions I had about US court system. Now I know, that traffic courts with their entire supporting infrastructure - police officers setting speed traps, lawyers charging flat fee, etc ? are just another source of income for local municipalities.
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            <title>Defensive driving</title>
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<p> <b>Defensive driving (DD)</b> is a marketing nickname for a reasonable and responsible vehicle operating techniques. I actively do not like the term. It implies, that someone is on offensive, and driver is on defensive. Normally there is nobody offending the driver, but himself. And we don't talk about tactical driving, do we? I prefer to get away from defense and use the term ?responsible" or "prudent" instead of "defensive". It conducts the intended message without implying enemy-enemy relationship, and therefore, lose-lose approach. Running a website on car driving safety tips, I don't have much choice however. Almost nobody is going to search for responsible or reasonable driving. Very few people are searching for the safe one. Hence I'm going to use the officially accepted term throughout "Fun and Safe". As much as I would prefer to avoid it. </p>
<p> Defensive Driving is not a rocket science. Basically, it is all about minimizing the odds of accident happening. As with many other things in life there is a science part and an art part to this. Things like checking tire pressure or consulting a map in advance definitely go to the science part and can be taught and reproduced easily in no time. On the other hand anticipating other drivers' moves cannot be digitized, and depends heavily on your experience. Still, this is a <b>skill that one can acquire.</b> It just takes some time and dedication, and the time is in the order of years rather than weeks or months. </p>
<p> You cannot just attend a Houston defensive driving courses and promptly become a safe driver. Or "<a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/texas-defensive-driving.html">defensive driving texas</a>", or any other DMV or court mandated course for this matter - such online courses in Texas major cities like Dallas, Austin, or Houston are just the most popular on the Internet for some reason. If anything, such a course just gives you some information. Providing this information is correct, it still has to be internalized through years of putting it to use.  Only when checking the mirrors every now and then, keeping the right distance depending on internal and external factors, and most other basic and advanced vehicle operating techniques become driver's second nature, he matures and becomes a safe one. </p>
<p> The major part of DD is anticipating other drivers' moves. Master driver does not need to react to dangerous traffic situation at the last moment. He constantly assesses all what is happening on the road. He anticipates how things are unfolding, and acts to avoid the danger way before it becomes evident to novice drivers. You can easily tell master driver from the average one by watching them braking. Master driver is almost never forced to apply the brakes in emergency. Slight touch of a brake pedal or even just a drop of gas takes him out of a dangerous situation well before it develops. For the novice, almost any braking is an emergency one. </p>
<p> Another important part of DD is clearly communicating your existence and intentions to other drivers. I always drive with my low beam on, night or day (I switch to high beam during night if needed of course). This way I'm sure fellow drivers see me. I always try to buy light colored cars for the same reason. Using your blinkers is not an option, it is a way of communicating your intentions when you travel on the road. And your stop lights should be always in order. If your actions or existence take surrounding drivers by surprise, your odds of getting into an accident are extremely high. </p>
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<p> Contrary to what government wants you to believe adhering to speed limits is not a part of real world DD. Speed limits are set for a number of political and monetary reasons, and usually have little if anything to do with safety. Often on highways even average driver can drive safe well above the set limit. Inside neighborhoods, though, speed limits are usually too high to be safe. </p>
<p> One often overlooked part of DD is proactively managing "atmosphere" on the road. Courtesy goes a long way in reducing the level of anxiety around you, thus reducing the odds of an accident. On the other hand attempts to teach fellow drivers a lesson or punish or offend them and in general behavior without regard to others significantly increase psychological tension around you. Other drivers become annoyed, and annoyance leads to impaired judgment, increasing the odds of you getting into an accident. </p>
<p> An important concept in real life Defensive Driving is leaving yourself room for error. An experienced driver maintains enough distance on all four sides of his car to allow him to safely react to the changes on the road. And to compensate for any imperfection his reactions can suffer, depending on his current shape, level of concentration, and environment. If master driver has to drive when tired or otherwise impaired (nervous, sick, drunk, etc.), he will maintain much bigger distances than when he feels fresh and fit. </p>
<p> If satisfactory room for error cannot be maintained for any reason, master driver lowers the speed until safe distances can be achieved. This happens for example when heavy rain significantly reduces visibility, reducing possible room for error due to reduced visibility. Another example will be road work leaving one narrow lane with tightly installed concrete blocks on the sides. Defensive driving calls for reducing the speed until safe distances can be maintained in both cases.</p>
<p> Driver who mastered real world <i>defensive driving</i> does not depend on other drivers for his and his passengers safety. He actively manages what is happening on the road, increasing his and others safety many times over. He does not fear driving. He enjoys it for all what it has to offer, not just for ability to floor his car or squeal his tires. </p>]]></description>
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            <title>Active Safety</title>
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            <description><![CDATA[<b>Active safety</b> refers to the features of your vehicle intended to help to prevent collision, as opposed to <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-5.html" title="Passive Safety">passive safety</a> features intended to minimize collision consequences. Active safety measures mainly affect <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-17.html" title="Handling">handling</a> and braking. In the past active safety features were limited to things like better brakes, better tires, stiffer suspension, or sharper steering. In recent years new ?smart? safety systems have been introduced on many cars.  ABS brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control are some of the electronic miracles that assist modern drivers today.  <br><br>

However, those "electronic nannies" are thought to be more harm than good by some experts (myself included). There are two major flaws to "electronic nannies" that I see. First is that those devices never can consider all variables driver considers, thus acting sometimes against driver decisions and interfering with his actions. This is the last thing experienced driver wants from his car. Secondly, such devices significantly reduce driver?s alertness to the road situation, thus exposing unsuspecting driver to a greater danger if "electronic nannies" fail to perform when pushed over the limit.
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            <title>Passive Safety</title>
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            <description><![CDATA[<b>Passive safety</b> refers to the features of your vehicle intended to minimize collision consequences, as opposed to <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-4.html">active safety</a> features intended to help to prevent collision.
Passive safety features include safety belts, airbags, special interior materials, collapsible exterior parts, etc.
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            <title>Load transfer</title>
            <link>http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-6.html</link>
            <description><![CDATA[<b>Load transfer </b> refers to the 'shifting of weight' around a motor vehicle during acceleration or deceleration. Your car?s weight is distributed about evenly between front and rear axles and left and right wheels. But when you slow down, accelerate, or make a turn, this weight distribution changes. If you are turning, wheels on the outer side are getting more weight. When you are braking, the front axle is getting more weight, and when you are accelerating, the rear axle is getting more weight. You probably noticed, that your car tilts forward, when you are braking, and tilts backwards, when you are accelerating. It is exactly like your car behaves on the side of a hill, and the same laws of physics are at work here. Load transfer happens on the hill side, too.<br><br>

It does not seem like a big deal at the first glance, but it is a big deal for your suspension. The front axle load when braking can easily be two times more than its load during acceleration, or even more than that! And this directly translates to the load your suspension has to handle.
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            <title>Detonation</title>
            <link>http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-7.html</link>
            <description><![CDATA[<b> Detonation</b> is one of the forms of abnormal combustion. It is an uncontrolled explosion, and its speeds are 10s if not 100s times faster than any normal fuel burning speed. In fact, the speeds are supersonic, and that is what makes detonation dangerous to your engine. The difference between gas oven normal burning and its explosion can give you an idea of the difference between normal combustion in an engine and detonation. Another analogy would be the difference between a gunshot and a mine burst.<br><br>

Detonation happens when fuel <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-11.html" title="Octane Rating">octane rating</a> is not sufficient for current combustion chamber conditions due to either incorrect fuel used, or excessive deposits build-up (which increases compression ratio), or, sometimes, too early ignition timing. All those things can work in concert, of course. Due to the combination of those reasons, at the end of the compression cycle air/fuel mixture gets heated too close to the temperature of its self-ignition. After spark plug ignites the initial portion of mixture, and flame front starts to propagate towards the rest of combustion chamber, pressure increases at a high rate all over the volume of the combustion chamber, causing the remaining mixture to quickly heat up beyond its self-ignition threshold. As soon as this threshold is surpassed in some point, another center of ignition is born, which produces another flame front. Those fronts work together to increase the pressure and temperatures even more, producing more ignition points. This chain reaction leads to explosive increase in pressure growth rate, which produces a shock wave, resonating all over the combustion chamber. On the outside of the engine detonation reveals itself as a high pitch metallic knocks or pings at heavy load and relatively low rpms.<br><br>

Since detonation is a real explosion, it can damage your engine fairly quickly and therefore should be avoided. If you use manufacturer?s recommended gas and still hear detonation, you need to have your car checked and/or serviced ASAP. Modern cars with computer-controlled engines do have knock sensor and computer retards ignition timing to avoid detonation, if necessary. This significantly hurts your mileage, however, because your engine no longer utilizes optimal ignition timing.
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            <title>Opposite lock</title>
            <link>http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-8.html</link>
            <description><![CDATA[<b> Opposite lock </b> is a driving technique used to control <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-9.html" title="oversteer">oversteer</a> and turn it to driver's advantage. <br><br>

When a driver entering a turn induces (intentionally or not) rear axle slide and car starts to spin out of the road, experienced driver turns the steering wheel to the opposite direction and controls the trajectory by the gas pedal. More gas ? more turn, less gas ? less turn. It sounds pretty easy, and it is easy and fun, after you master it. And if you do, no sudden lose of grip will catch you off guard ? you will start to steer with gas instinctively. <br><br>

Mastering this is a tough call. You need a low traction road surface to use more or less reasonable car speeds while you learn, and lots of space around to let your car stop by itself, in case you lose control completely (and you will lose it many times before you start getting a feel). If you do not live in a snowy area and do not have a huge deserted parking lot nearby, your best bet would be an advanced driving school.
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            <title>Oversteer</title>
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            <description><![CDATA[<b>Oversteer</b> or Oversteering, as opposed to <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-10.html" title="Understeer">Understeer(ing)</a>, is a tendency of a car to turn more than driver expected it to. Oversteer/understeer depends on many factors, major ones being drive axle (front, rear, or all), weight distribution, vehicle aerodynamics, suspension tune, and tires? grip and stiffness. RWD cars naturally have oversteer, and FWD cars ? understeer. One can change it to the opposite with the help of suspension tuning and tires picking, or even electronics. Most of modern cars are usually tuned to show slight understeer, since this is safer for inexperienced drivers.<br><br>

When the speed is too high, car with understeer will slide outside the curve, with its front wheels losing traction. The instinctive driver?s reaction - to step off the gas and start braking - will induce <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-6.html" title="Load transfer">load transfer</a> to front wheels, allowing them to gain traction back, thus putting the car back on track, while reducing the car speed below dangerous level at the same time.<br><br>

With oversteer rear wheels will lose traction, sending the car into spin. The same instinctive driver behavior will amplify the problem and guarantee complete loss of control over the car, when front wheels are forced by spinning car to lose their traction, too. There is a technique called <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-8.html" title="Opposite lock">opposite lock</a>, however, that allows driver to keep the control and even use slight spinning to complete the turn on higher speed. I consider this technique to be a survival skill and absolute necessity to anyone driving RWD car. When mastered, it allows the driver to get much more fun out of driving, by the way. ]]></description>
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            <title>Understeer</title>
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            <description><![CDATA[<b>Understeer</b> or Understeering is a tendency of a car to turn less than driver expected it to. Please see <a href="http://www.funandsafedriving.com/encyclopedia-9.html" title="Oversteer">Oversteer</a> article for details.]]></description>
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